>>> Enquiries are temporarily closed until we have caught up on our shortlist <<<

If you're still wanting to enquire, we will accept it and respond. However, please be aware that we'll be fulfilling our current hand-picked shortlist and there may be a significant wait for an available kitten.

If you are genuinely interested in giving one of our kittens a home, please read below >> it covers some commonly asked questions

This info supersedes any info packs that we've previously sent via email and is current from March 2021


Henley x Adelaide Born 01/01/2021

Plans 2021

Henley 💜 Adelaide (polydactyly x standard paw) US/DK 
*** Repeat mating will occur once Adi has regained her condition ***

Henley 💜 Nico (polydactyly x standard paw) US/DK

Possible Colours

Possible Colours

Black tabby (n)
Black silver tabby (ns)
Blue tabby (a)
Blue silver tabby (as)
Black (n)
Black smoke (ns)
Blue (a)
Blue smoke (as)
Black tabby (n)
Black silver tabby (ns)
Blue tabby (a)
Blue silver tabby (as)
Black (n)
Black smoke (ns)
Blue (a)
Blue smoke (as)

  • The letters in brackets after each colour are simply the colour codes.
  • All of our cats carry the dilute modifier gene (blue colouring), however it is a recessive trait that needs two alleles to be passed down for a blue coloured baby to be produced. The black base colour is the dominant trait.
  • We'll see solid colours OR tabby (agouti) patterning, however tabby patterns are dominant over solid colour. As with blue colouring, the solid presentation is recessive, so a kitten will need two alleles of the non-agouti gene to be passed down for them to present as a solid colour.
  • Some babies will be smoke & silver. It's caused by the dominant inhibitor gene, so only needs one allele to be passed down. Since it's dominant, most babies will show this trait.  "Smoke" refers to solid colours, and "silver" refers to tabby patterns, but they are both caused by the same inhibitor gene (as far as I'm aware).
  • Some babies will be polydactyly (extra toes in any combination, front/back paws). This is also a dominant trait.

What's involved in a well-bred purebred?

1. Their pedigree. 5-generation, clean outcross American / European lines

2. Food & kitty litter costs up to the point of adoption - see feeding info below

3. Vet consults, including first 2 x vaccinations

4. Microchip & desexing under a general anaesthetic + post op check

5. Fortnightly worming treatment from 6 weeks of age

6. Parent cats are DNA screened and cleared (N/N) for HCM, SMA, PKdef, PKD

7. We're on the path to obtaining thorough health testing. By the end of the year (if not earlier) all our parent cats will have had: 

  •  Echocardiogram (every two years) for physical signs of HCM (even if they are genetically clear) 
  •  Hip score to screen for FHD

8. Maintaining current registration with GCCFSA / DACO / UMCFA 

9. Preparing and attending shows for the purpose of maintaining breed standard & gaining experience (we're very slowly working up to this. I (Rosie) have PTSD and major anxiety, and so this part is hard for me)

10. Maintaining and improving items related to our cats: toys, cat trees, enrichment items, indoor kitten areas and outdoor enclosures

11. Providing lifetime support to kitten/cats who have been adopted out to forever homes

12. Taking back a cat/kitten if circumstances change - they will never end up in a shelter or unapproved home 

13. As per South Australian Legislation, we only allow for 3 litters / 18 months / per queen, as this allows for full recovery in between litters

14. Choosing kittens for the next generation to enrich our lines takes priority over pet kittens. This is the whole point of breeding! We aim to make each litter better than the last. 

15. We do this as a hobby, not as a business and the aim is to break-even (but most times run on a loss). It is rare to make any profit when you're engaging in ethical practices. We are committed to enriching this breed for the better, and we never want to lose sight of this.

A waitlist... or not?

We don't work to a traditional waiting list where we take deposits from never-ending enquiries. We aren't comfortable holding deposits for an unlimited/undetermined amount of time. We only have small kitten numbers as we prefer to focus on quality over quantity. 

However, we DO have a shortlist where we hand-pick homes based on the best fit for our kittens. We aim to create long term relationships with potential future homes. When the litters are born, we will offer kittens to those on our shortlist first. 

If you'd like to be on our shortlist, and STAY on our shortlist, we ask that you keep in contact regularly, show genuine interest, be honest with us about your expectations and if anything changes with your circumstances.

About you...

We'd love to hear about your home, family, kids, other pets (if you have any), if you have an outdoor enclosure or plans to build one and anything else you'd like to share with us. 

Please do this AFTER you have read the information on this page.

We are very open about our home and cats, and we ask that you offer the same in return. 

This information contains almost ALL the answers to the most commonly asked questions. 

Each kitten will come with an adoption contract.

You'll need to provide an indoor-only home and/or fully enclosed cat run. This protects the cat from preventable injury such as: traffic, snake bites, exposure to other roaming cats who may carry diseases - it also protects wildlife. 

We prefer homes who will engage in balanced raw feeding - but it's not essential. 

Why do we care so much?

We care about where our kittens end up because they've grown up with us in our home. We've seen every milestone and development so far and each one leaves an impression on our heart. Some of them we've helped rear with their mama if they struggle to put on weight or won't feed. They are living, breathing little souls that we'll always love and hope to see regular updates on throughout their lives. 

We reserve the right to select homes on an individual basis. 

At times, babies may be spoken for before they are born. 

Occasionally a retired stud or queen will become available for adoption. 

Our kittens are for pet homes only {we will not be selling entire kittens at this time, unless under the guidance of our mentor breeder}.

Each baby is affectionate, socialised and confident around children and other cats and dogs.

Here's the timeline for a kitten:

6 weeks old...1st vaccination + worming
8 weeks old...Worming
10 weeks old...2nd vaccination + worming
12 weeks old...Desexing + microchip (all under general anaesthetic) + worming
14 weeks old...ready to go to their new home locally here in SA
- or -
16 weeks old...minimum age to travel interstate with "fit to travel" documentation

We can understand that you may want your kitten as early as possible, but please consider the bigger picture. 

They are very young and susceptible to stress. 

We have a responsibility to reduce this stress and prepare them for their whole life. 

To this end, we stagger their vet work (microchipping, vaccinations, parasite treatment and desexing) and travel as much as possible. This means that they need adequate recovery time between these stressful moments in their young life. 

You will still enjoy many months and years of kitten behaviour and play (particularly as Maine Coons are slow to mature) and it will be setting them up for the best transition possible. 

This is non-negotiable. 

'Fit to travel' documentation will also be provided from our Vet, at the time of travel.

If you've given a home to one of our babies... what comes next?

A health guarantee will be in place for the kitten up to 2 years of age. If the kitten dies of an inheritable disease which is directly related to our lines, we will replace the kitten of similar colour and quality. A necropsy at the owner's cost would be required to determine the COD. 

We hope that an open line of communication remains in place for the life of the kitten, as it's important for us to track the progress of our lines. We'd like to offer lifetime support and friendship. We'd also like to know the good, the bad - and everything in between. We won't disappear if something goes wrong. 

So how much are they?

Contact me (Rosie) to find out the price of our kittens.

Please use the CONTACT FORM

A deposit will only be required when we have offered a kitten. 

The full balance is then required when that kitten is 10 weeks old.

Watch our Facebook page for heaps of updates! 

We also have a private Facebook group that genuine enquiries may request to join and will be approved if we have received at LEAST an introductory email from you.

Health issues, and how are they screened?

We are on the path to getting all of our parent cats thoroughly health tested for all known Maine Coon diseases and disorders.  

CURRENTLY: ALL our breeding cats have a DNA profile that you may view on each of their individual pages. They are all N/N for all of the genetic disorders listed below - meaning they are completely clear of the disorders, and are NOT carriers.


HCM - Hypertrophic Cardiomyopathy MYBPC3 mutation: A31P (cardiac disorder). Screened by DNA profile and echocardiogram ultrasound (echo's are every 2 years in adult cats). 

SMA - Spinal Muscular Atrophy/Dystrophy (muscular disorder). Screened by DNA profile.

PKdef - Erythrocyte Pyruvate Kinase Deficiency (blood disorder). Screened by DNA profile.

PKD - Polycystic Kidney Disease. Inherited condition in cats that causes multiple cysts (pockets of fluid) to form in the kidneys. Screened by DNA profile.

FHD - Feline Hip Dysplasia. Screened by x-ray in all adult cats. Each cat will be assigned a hip score.

The DNA Profiles we choose are the extensive disease and trait tests by Orivet, UC Davis, or Langford.

A DNA test shows whether the cat is:

1. Homozygous for the disorder (they possess the disorder and pass it on to their offspring)
2. Heterozygous for the disorder (they are a carrier, but may not necessarily have the disorder themselves) 
3. Completely clear for the disorder (N/N) 

The tests also determine the colour and trait genetics for each cat. This shows whether they carry solid or tabby (agouti gene, dominant), blue or cream (dilution gene, recessive), silver/smoke (inhibitor gene, dominant), and polydactyly (extra toes in any combination, front and/or back paws, dominant).

For the near future: 

  • As part of coming into line with UMCFA health standards, we are planning to get all our breeding cats heart scanned by Dr Richard Wooley, Feline Cardiologist, on his next rotation to South Australia (he travels interstate frequently). Unfortunately we missed his last visit in January 2021. 
  • We are also planning to get hip x-rays and hip scores by Dr Jennifer Richardson in WA (radiology locally, with films being sent over to WA) before the end of the year!

Feeding and Diet

We feed a complete & balanced raw carnivore diet, based on the 80-10-10 prey model (80% protein 10% bone 10% excreting organs). 

To achieve this, we use a product called Raw Meow. This is a meal completer. It comes in both adult and kitten blend. I always recommend this product if you are new to feeding raw, as all you have to do is add it to raw muscle meat/protein, and this makes a fully balanced raw meal. 

To complement Raw Meow Mix, we also like to rotate these brands of commercial food, which have been shown to be the closest thing to balanced raw: 

  • Ziwi Peak canned food and air dried (it's cooked, but one of the best commercial diets, available from most large pet stores)
  • Feline Naturals canned food and freeze dried (also cooked, most large pet stores)
  • Big Dog for Cats premade raw patties (most large pet stores)
  • Meat Mates canned food (only from Coles supermarkets - made by Feline Naturals)

Kittens leave with a sample of Raw Meow Mix, and lots of raw-feeding support - if you choose to go down that path. 

If you don't.... no problem! The only thing we ask is to TRANSITION SLOWLY, so their tummies have time to adjust.


The main thing that people worry about with raw diets is "will my cats get sick??" (bacterial or parasitic diseases). The short answer is: usually not, if you manage your food prep right!

Although our animals are domesticated (which changes things little bit) - out in the natural environment, wild/big cats don't cook their food! They are obligate carnivores. Their gastrointestinal tract is designed for eating raw, whole prey, including all the fur, feathers, skin, scales, organs and bones. Some people are surprised to find that they don't need carbohydrates or veggies in their diet, in fact they find it really hard to process! A cat's gut simply does not contain as many enzymes which break down carbohydrates. Although there is a small amount of absorption, most of the carbs simply go straight through. 

It is paramount to make sure that you don't just feed plain muscle meat. Why? because it doesn't contain all the essential vitamins and nutrients that they need. This would be the equivalent to us eating plain chicken breast, every day, for every meal, for the rest of our lives - we'd get sick pretty quickly, right? Well so does a cat if that's all they are getting. An unbalanced raw diet = malnutrition, and fast. And it's probably the main reason vets advise against it, because it's really hard to explain to someone that they need to be eating a full and balanced meal. On average, a Vet will see the cats who get super sick from eating a plain muscle meat, which may not have been frozen first, and so it's easier for them to just give blanket advice away from raw altogether. 
As you can see - we like to try and give you the whole picture.

What people feed their animals can become a controversial topic, so we're more than happy to talk about it! 

At the end of the day... we advocate for simply: "FED is best". If you've found something that works for you and your animal, keep going! Humans eat a huge varied diet, some is very nutritional, and some is junk food. We're not in any position to judge what anyone else does. However, we're more than happy to share what works for us, and a little about what we've learnt. 

Question everything, and don't just take our advice, or any one else's on face value. Research for yourself, talk to your vet, read published studies, and make an informed decision.

Search for Australian Raw Fed Cats on Facebook to learn more about balanced raw feeding!

Poly Paws - What the heck are they?

Polydactyly means "many digits". Simply put, polydactyly cats have more toes than a standard paw in any combination on either their front paws or both front and back. 

Standard paws are 5 toes on the front and 4 toes on the back.

Poly paws have been a controversial mutation in the Maine Coon / feline world. Research has shown it does not cause any structural or behavioural problems if bred correctly. The gene for polydactyly is dominant. Generally if one of the parents is polydactyly, then 50% or more of their kittens will also possess this trait. 

See my blog for some articles on poly paws!

There two other conditions that some people can mistake for polydactylism:

Radial hypoplasia (commonly known as a "twisty cat") is a different condition to polydactylism. It has an extremely low incidence of occurring as a result of heavily inbreeding homozygous polydactyl cats. In simple terms, the bones of the limbs are undeveloped, and/or develop with deformities. We obtain x-rays on the limbs of each of our adult poly cats to make sure there are no developmental or structural signs of radial hypoplasia. We also only breed poly-to-standard foot to further minimise any chance of structural abnormality.

Double-paw is a completely different condition to polydactylism. It is a structural mutation where the paw or limb has branched into two separate paws, or even separated further up at the elbow/knee/shoulder/hip creating another limb entirely. Both of these conditions occur during embryo development. Double-paw can create a lot of structural problems depending on the formation of the limb.

We absolutely love poly-pawed cats and think it is an endearing and interesting feature that goes way back into the early history of the Maine Coon! It's slowly being re-accepted. 

Indeed, poly's are able to be registered and shown in New Zealand, in the USA and in some European countries. Perhaps Australia will not be far behind. 

Henley is registered legitimately as a polydactyly with GCCFSA. He cannot be shown (yet), but they do recognise this trait. 

We would like to reiterate here that we'll never sacrifice a certain trait for an animal's health. 

Nico as a kitten

Nico as a kitten
Baby Henley

Baby Henley
Baby Adelaide

Baby Adelaide
Baby Nico

Baby Nico

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